Tuesday, June 26, 2012

El Chalten: Fitzroy & more glaciers!


Time for some more pics!  This time I'm posting from Fort Collins, Colorado.  The mercury is rising to 105 today so what better way to stay cool than review some icy pics from Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park!

After the cruise dropped us off in Punta Arenas, Chile, we back-tracked up through Puerto Natales and crossed the border to Argentina heading to El Calafate (a touristy mountain town not too different from Breckenridge or Estes Park) and then onto El Chalten, a much smaller village adjacent to the Monte Fitzroy massive (You may recognize Fitzroy as the mountain on the Patagonia logo). Where in Torres del Paine we had days of cloudy weather and snow, the weather in Chalten was clear, crisp, with atypical cloudless skies.

Some readers may be curious whether we preferred Fitzroy to Torres del Paine.  Our verdict that it's really worth seeing both.  The land crossing is easy and the visa fee for Americans in only collected in Santiago and Buenos Aires so there's no extra cost to hop over the border between Chile and Argentina (we crossed into Argentina 3 times and flew home from EZE without ever having to pay the Argentine fee).  Torres has a huge variety of dramatic scenery where Fitzroy is less diverse but just as spectacular.  Torres give you more of a wilderness experience while all of the major sights near Fitzroy can be done as day hike or overnight trips.  Chalten is cheaper than Puerto Natales (and there are no fees for camping in Los Glaciares) but you have to go through much more expensive Calafate to get there, in my experience, evening out the costs between the two destinations.  Really, if you are coming this far south, why not take the extra couple of days to see what both sides have to offer?  We recently met a fellow traveler in Tennessee (small world right?) who managed to fly down, trek in both parks, and visit the glaciers in an incredible 16 days!  

Enough talk...bring on the pics!

El Calafate. Our stopover point on the way to El Chalten

Sheep along the road from El Calafate to El Chalten

Tony next to Fitzroy in the distance. One of the first of the 200+ pics we'd take of the awesome peak.

On the road to El Chalten


Our first hike to view the Torre mountains on the south side of Fitzroy

Fall colors heading to the Torres


The torres are the spires on the right. Fitzroy is actually behind them.

Ice floating in Laguna Torre 

Tony climbing a tree on our way to the Fitzroy viewpoint.

And Mt. Fitzroy.... without a cloud in sight!




Sunrise on Mount FItzroy

Looking down on El Chalten

Tasty reward for all of that hiking!

Argentine naval station in Chalten (which is completely landlokced).

Our favorite place in Chalten...the most amazing empanadas of our trip!

Caprese empanadas!

Sunrise on Viedma Lake

This is the Viedma Glacier- which has a narrow face but has over 20 km (nearly 8 sq mi) of ice making it larger than the Grey Glacier in TDP and the more famous Perito Moreno Glacier near Calafate.  It's also alot more stable (with less calving) which makes it perfect for ice trekking!

Crevasse! (Thinking of Bear Grylls)


Crevasse!!

Looking into the ice is like looking at a wave in the ocean.

Tony would love to be ice climbing!

Surf's up!

Crevasse!!!

More blue ice

Climbers scaling an overhang




For scale- look at the 2 climbers on the right

Tony taking a nap

Gigantic iceland in Lake Viedma

Calafate plant- they say if you eat this you will return to Patagonia.  I hope it's true and we will  be back for another adventure!


Saturday, June 2, 2012

Cruise: Ushuaia to Punta Arenas via Cape Horn


We've never taken a cruise before but when we found a last minute deal on a cruise from Ushuaia back to Punta Arenas and stop at Cape Horn we couldn't pass it up.  It wasn't Antarctica, but we still got to visit really unique places and enjoy a little R&R.  This was the most expensive 4 days of our trip.  Yes, it was luxurious (by backpacking standards).  Yes, the food was amazing (we ate back everything we'd lost while trekking and then some). Totally worth it.

Our ship at the dock in Ushuaia


Our room- it was huge! 

Overnight we sailed down the Beagle Channel , into Chile, and woke up at Cape Horn!
This is the northeast side of the island.

Zodiacs ferrying passengers from the ship.

Tony at 56' S

Saddle to the Albatross monument.  

Albatross monument to the sailors who have died trying to sail around Cape Horn. 




Dog looking out to sea.
There is a family that lives at the lighthouse on the island (a Chilean Naval station). 

Looking south toward the Drake Passage and Antarctica!  Here the Southern Ocean flows around the globe unimpeded by land.
At 56 degrees south this is about as far south as you can get before Antarctica (to compare, the southernmost point of New Zealand is 47'S and Africa ends at only 35'S).   

Lighthouse.  Imagine living here!

Sunrise and other islands to the east.
After Cape Horn, we sailed through several channels, including the Magdalena and Cockburn Channels before connecting up with the Strait of Magellan.  Here are the picks from some of our other stops:

Wulaia Bay- Charles Darwin and Fitzroy stopped here for a few months on their famous voyage.  It was also the home to a large group of the indigenous Yamana people.
This is actually the "back" side of Isla Navarino. 

Charles Darwin house

Southern beech trees

More beavers!

This tree must have been 4 feet across!

Tony looking over the bay.  The bay was full of dolphins that came right up the the zodiac boats- super neat!

The next day we sailed through Alberto de Augostini National Park and visited the Auila Glacier.
Ah Patagonia...mistly clouds, waterfalls, and glaciers...

Aguila glacier


Front of the glacier.  We walked right up to it but it was raining pretty heavily so this is the last pic.

View off the back of the boat.

Tony on an "iceberg."

Cormorants taking off into the sunrise on the last morning of the cruise before we arrived in Punta Arenas.